Green leaf dress – pattern drafting

Yesterday, I used my newly-made top block to create the bodice for my Green leaf dress. So, task in hand is to use this information to adjust the bodice of Simplicity 5747 from a very flared top to something more fitted. Not quite sure the best way to do this, so, for once, do not go into fugue state, but…

• lay my block pattern over the Simplicity pattern, matching at centre front and mid shoulder

• redraw the armhole starting with the Simplicity armhole at the shoulder, and blending it into the block at the point where they cross over
• compare the seam length of the sleeve from under the armpit to where the gathering/ease begins, to the seam length of the armhole – approx the same (huzzah!)
• and then make a toile from old sheet (see Photoshop-futzed pic with border – gosh PS is fun!)

It’ll need a little adjustment: the sleeves need shortening by about 6 inches, and the cuff increasing to fit biceps. Also, the block that I use creates a perfectly horizontal bust dart that’s quite ‘bold’ – not sure I want to keep this feature.

I try it on, belted, to work out my natural waist (see black sharpie marks on toile) and how to distribute the fullness into the waistband and overall, it seems about right. Have little thrill! It’s like riding a bike for the first time and not falling off.